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Old Mesilla
MESILLA, NM – Only minutes south of Las Cruces lies one of the most historic towns in the Southwest, La Mesilla, New Mexico. Mesilla did not become part of the United States until the mid-1850s, but its history begins with the close of the Mexican American War, and the signing of the Treaty of Guadeloupe. Soon after, the sleepy border town would become one of the most important towns in the West, playing a key role in western expansion.
When the United States entered into the Treaty of Guadeloupe in 1848, they gained control over Texas, New Mexico, and Upper California, setting the Mexican-American border at Rio Grande River. To many people who had lived their entire lives as Mexican citizens, the idea of becoming Americans did not sit well and many moved across the Rio Grande back into Mexico. They settled on a small hill and founded the town of La Mesilla.
By the mid 1850s, Mesilla had established itself as an instrumental town in the transportation of passengers and goods around the Southwest. The Mexican town prospered as it became one of the only places travelers could stop rest and get supplies, no matter which direction they were heading. But when the Gadsden Purchase was ratified in 1854, the small town would again fall under the authority of the Unites States as the U.S. gained control of nearly 30,000 square miles of northern Mexico, southern Arizona and New Mexico. By the mid-1800s, Mesilla’s population had reached 3,000, making it the largest town and trade center between San Antonio and San Diego, and an important stop for both the Butterfield Stage Line and the San Antonio-San Diego Mail Lines. Around the plaza, fine hotels and restaurants were built to accommodate the influx of travelers and new residents. Drove muleteers and miners traveling between El Paso, Santa Fe, and mining companies in the Gila and San Andres Mountains, regularly purchased supplies in Mesilla, prompting wholesalers from as far away as San Antonio and St. Louis to advertise in Mesilla newspapers. The town was also frequented by Apache Indians, who regularly attacked, stealing livestock, food and taking captives.
But the Apaches were not the only ones to invade Mesilla. During the 1850s, Confederate troops invaded the small town, taking control and declaring it the capital of the Arizona Territory of the Confederate States of the America. Headquarters were set up in what is currently the Fountain Theatre and although some residents supported the Confederate cause, the town continued to celebrate its Mexican heritage. The broad mix of political views and cultures often resulted in riots and shootouts, quite a contrast to the fiestas, dances, fairs, and bullfights residents were accustom to.
Mesilla continued to grow and prosper until the early 1880s when the Santa Fe Railroad selected nearby Las Cruces instead of Mesilla for the location of their newest route. Mesilla landowners resented the railroad’s assumption that local residents whould help build the line, prompting Las Cruces businessmen to persuade the railroad giant northward. With attention now focused on Las Cruces, Mesilla’s appeal and importance began to disappear. To this day, its size and population are virtually the same as they were 120 years ago.
But the coming of the railroad brought with it its own set of problems to the area. Workers consumed huge quantities of beef, placing city officials at the mercy of cattle rustlers. Gunfights often broke out in the streets of
both Las Cruces and Mesilla, and criminals like Nicolas Provencio, and Dutch Hubert were regulars in both towns. Even western outlaw William H. Bonney, aka Billy the Kid, who was a frequent visitor of both towns, was tried and convicted for the murder in a Mesilla courtroom. It was said that during sentencing the judge told Billy he would hang until he was “dead, dead, dead,” to which Billy replied, “well you can go to hell, hell hell.” Billy was later shot and killed by Lincoln County Sheriff Pat Garrett after he escaped from a Lincoln County jail cell where he was awaiting execution.
Today, visitors won’t find wild gunfights or riots on Mesilla’s streets, rather they can visit a new generation of Mesilla residents. Where a stagecoach depot, saloon, courthouse and hotel once stood, you now find restaurants, art galleries, bookstores, and shops. On some weekends, the plaza plays host to festivals and events like Cinco de Mayo, Diez y Seis de Septiembre and Dia de los Muertos, all celebrating the town’s heritage and colorful past. During the holiday season, the plaza is aglow with luminarias and filled with the sounds of carolers. Visitors can also see the San Albino Church, built from adobe over 100 years ago, or the Gadsden Museum, a local landmark recounting the area’s rich history. And just down the street, shoppers can find the latest addition to Mesilla, the Mercado de Mesilla, featuring a range of merchants, vendors and restaurants.
Efforts to presevere the town’s rich history, culture, and architecture have made Mesilla one of the best known and most visited historic community in southern New Mexico. Year-round, you can experience all the intrigue and independence this historic village has to offer.
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